The most popular thing to do in Varanasi is to die—or for those who are already dead, to be cremated. If the ancient city was known as the City of Light, it was probably on account of all the funeral pyres. For the well-to-do, a good old-fashioned body-burning on the banks of the Ganges is still available, even in our world of pollution restrictions. For everyone else, there are handily located gas-fired crematoria