India’s Trinity of Troubles

Suddenly, the private bus with our small, motley group touring southern India stopped in the middle of nowhere. Our tour leader urged us to follow him into the roadside jungle. In a small clearing, a crude, ghee- and wax-spattered stone figure, some five feet tall, stared at us through wide-open eyes. A primitive altar was surrounded by rows of pottery horses with riders. We were puzzled.

Our knowledgeable tour leader launched into a well-rehearsed speech:

This is southern India’s real religion. Yes, I am a Catholic of partial dalit [untouchable] descent. But I want you to know that here we are in the presence of our true, traditional religion. It is not Hindu. It is a much older folk belief in protectors represented by such statues. It is visited and venerated by the local villagers. Every year they gather here, and each family places these horses and riders in front of the altar, brings gifts and asks to be blessed and protected.

This scene evoked vivid memories of what I…