Chess Player   Pawns are the soul of chess. —Philidor, World Chess Champion, Paris 1773   I visited Estonia just after the Soviets left liberation tactile. 300,000 voices strong, a Singing Revolution, brought a quarter of all Estonians into Tallinn Arena for strictly forbidden national songs and hymns.   On the street schnitzels & boiled potatoes cost a dollar, the depleted local grocery had two cabbages & a few beetroots.   I found a rare and magnificent old Russian chess set in a second hand shop. After paying $100 cash to a red- bearded Goliath reclining in half- shadow behind the counter I…