Memories of apartheid South Africa have been in the air lately since the death of Nelson Mandela. I have been reminded of a visit I made there in February 1960, and of memories of some of the excesses of apartheid and of some more liberal views that were more openly expressed than I had expected. Thirty-seven years later I made a second visit to South Africa in which I was able to observe changes that had occurred as a result of the abandonment of apartheid. During the decade leading up to my visit in 1960 the apartheid policy of segregation,…